Tusheti

An introduction to Tusheti - Georgia

2009-04-17T15:37:00.000-07:00

The following blog is my personal account of Tusheti , what I've learned about this remote region in Georgia, plus a number of personal observations I would have liked to have known when I was trying to uncover the fundimentals about the region . All essential when attempting to travel on horseback with my family in the summer of 2007.

I must confess some of the information detailed in this account could be inaccurate but I've made every attempt to try and gather as accurate a picture as I can of this Alpine heaven.

This small and unique part of Georgia is tucked up in the northeast of Georgia, on the Dagestan and Chechen boarders. Cradled in the Caucasus ,Tusheti is an untamed region, cut off from the world and until recently only populated by Shepperd's and Cowmen who make a meagre living by crafting a variety of cherished salty cheeses, supplemented by the farming of potatoes and vegetables grown in their cottage gardens. This remote and remarkable area is one of the most fascinating and pristine high-mountain regions in Georgia and most likely Europe.

In recent years the indigenous population has diminished significantly, with many Tush now working in the lowlands and only visiting the region during festival times. This leaves a minority of Tush to continue living a tough transhumant life in the mountains. A life made harder by the fact that most Tushetiens take three days to move their stock up from the lowlands in May for the summer pastures and bringing them down again in October to over winter in a more gentle climate. .

Life has changed in recent years for the Tush. Tourism is beginning to take a hold as the world wakes up to a people and lifestyle forgotten about by those in the grip of ambition and wealth creation. As we make a dash for prosperity and comfort, the western world appears to have lost touch with the land of our forefathers and for some, Tusheti is one of the last links with life as it was.

This account is an assortment of general information, facts and insight I've learned while travelling in this region. It is not a sentimental view but a pragmatic window on a part of the world that no man can ever tame. This is a noble land that even the Georgians find hard to understand but by reading this account you may gain a taste and understanding for Tushetians shear exuberance, vitality and energy, born from another era and a tribal culture that must be nearly extinct in other parts of Europe.

Getting to Tusheti and what to expect

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Tusheti can be reached with a 4WD vehicle and only a 4WD. The journey starts from Pshaveli (Kakheti) with the road taking you over the Abano pass (2926 mts asl) and onto Omalo, the main village of Tusheti. The pass, built in 1978, is only open during the summer months from around May until to October –Note for travellers: some homestays are often only open from July but a bit a preplanning will always ensure you have somewhere to stay.

The following pictures are just a taste of the tough and exciting journey to Tusheti.

The road up to the pass , if you can call it that, is a white knuckle drive of the first order with waterfalls cascading onto the road creating what the Tush refer to as ‘their own natural car wash’. Well it gets the car clean.

On the way up to the pass you will see by the roadside a sign pointing out a local Spa . Although basic ,this Spa is known by Tushetiens as a giver of life with the potential for revitalising the body and sorting out all manner of ailments. I've never been there but I am told it is worth a visit .You can't miss it if you ask any local. The sign to the spa is at a bend in road which I appreciate is rubbish infomation since the road bends all the time.
Once over the magnificent Abano pass (don’t miss the wild flowers and keep an eye out for the cloud cover) the journey gets more exciting, depending on the previous winter that is. In the summer of 2008 the road cut through the previous winter’s snow approx 4 meters deep, and that was in July. In the summer of 2009 there was a period in late July when the rain fall made part of the road impassable for a while but this is not uncommon. The road will always dry out you might just be held up for a couple of days.

Following the river, deep into Tusheti the road is often subject to land slides after heavy weather. The landscape is made up from a mixture of shale and rock knitted together by centuries of alpine woods.

The debris of ice and rock covering over the torrent of the mountain river illustrates just how violent the previous winter must have been.

This is a picture of me and my wife Melissa standing by some of the snow left from the previous winter in 2007/8 and yes it is July.

This view from within our 4WD illustrates how deep the snow can get as we make our way to Tusheti. On other occasions our trusty Lada drove over the snow and debris crablike, slowly inching our way across the compacted snow in what felt like a challenge from the elements to test our determination to travel to Tusheti .

This journey, never to be missed, can take as long as six hours to Omalo depending on the conditions.

On arrival you will see Tusheti has two Alazani rivers that join close to the village of Shenako, near Omalo.The combination of these two rivers flow out of Georgia where it crosses into Dagestan and onto the Caspian Sea. More of this later

To understand the lay of the land ,although it is not important to the traveller Tusheti is divided into four communities:

The villages situated in Pirikiti Alazani river gorge, unsurprisingly ,are known as the Pirikit Community.Villages in the Gomertsi Alazani gorge are referred to as the Gomertsi Community. And villages in the valley of the Tsuata Tskali river are known as the Tsova Community. The last community are the Chagmis who are located in the valley of the two Alazani rivers and the administrative center of Tusheti – Omalo
Omalo is the largest village in Tusheti and regarded by some as the center of administration and a good starting point when embarking on a trip around Tusheti.

On arrival you will be stunned by the exceptional scenery where ever you look.

A spectacular mix of, snow-covered, rocky peaks, deep gorges, and soft, grassy hillsides peppered with flocks of the indiginious sheep. Sadly the Tusheti vernacular architecture is not evident in Omalo ,which is still suffering from the brutalism of Soviet Russia.

The image above offers an idea of Omalo and the image below illustrates the approaching meadow which must be one of the finest wildflower meadows I've ever encountered and one of Tusheti's great untold secrets .

If you have the energy make your way to Upper Omalo , the old village.

This is me looking down on Upper Omalo with a tower restored by the 'Keslo foundation' to my left. Keslo meaning strong or tough.

In Upper Omalo you will be able to see the recently restored Keslo towers and some great examples of local traditional construction. There is also an excellent Guest House to be found, as there are in Omalo.
An important point is there is no running water or electricity in Tusheti. This isn’t a problem but if you are a western city slicker treat the experience as a novelty and think of the romantic side to such an experience. Eating by candlelight and showering with a bucket of warm water is something we can all get use too and remember, you will begin to connect with the wild after a short while .

This Khatis(shrine) is from Gogurlta

Once you make your way by what ever route into Tusheti you will find evidence of its old animist religion. You will come upon stone shrines known as khatis, sometimes decked with the horns of sacrificed goats or sheep and possibly a bell. Women are not permitted to approach these shrines and please please don’t think how silly. This is a very important aspect of the Tushetian culture and insulting to the Tush if, as a women, you choose to disregard their custom.

More of this later .

This is the ' Kamaz' 6x6 super truck or Soviet monster of the highways . It takes passengers and general provisions on a daily basis to Omalo. This great beast winds its way up over the pass to Tusheti at a snails pace. Each bend in the road must be taken with precision and nerve by its driver. The road to this wilderness was not built for monsters like the Kamaz. I prefer the nimble 4WD Lada's/Niva's who seem to take the road in their stride.

You have been warned, this truck is not for the faint hearted unless you are looking for a story to share with your friends.

Getting there
The following information might be useful when making plans to travel to Tusheti, however my advice is: Never presume anything will run on time. And work on the assumption something may need to be fixed along the way . This is not the rule but it’s best to set expectations and you won’t be disappointed. What can be guaranteed when traveling to Tusheti is some genuine excitement with life pitching up with some exceptional experiences along the way. One other point to make to the uninitiated is when you hire a 4WD don't presume it is for you alone . Friends may pitch up and take a ride, other drivers will wish to pass the time of day and this can take a while and you might find yourself stopping for an unexpected lunch along the way . Anything can happen.

As I mentioned earlier my preferred choice of travel to Tusheti is the Lada or Niva 4WD. This can be found in the small towns of Kvemo- and Zemo-Alvani in Kakheti. That's about 22km from Telavi ; I'm told by my daughter who traveled in the summer of 2009 one should expect to pay around 200 to 220 Georgian Lari for a Niva/Lada for a one-way trip. These small white 4WD's can take three passengers but only two rucksacks possible three at a push . To find a car arrive in Alvani by 9am – the cars mostly leave from the central crossroads which is impossible to miss. If traveling by Marshrutnoye you can ask to be dropped off at the beginning of the road to Tusheti . I have found the drive from Kakheti to Omalo takes around 6 to 7 hours to cover 80 km and not 4 hours as some of the guides might tell you. If you speak Georgian ask your driver to travel very slowly on the roads running up to the mountain trail. Any chance for the drivers to put their foot down, they will and you don't want to frighten the chickens do you?

For the cheaper and far less comfortable but even more exciting ride, try the Kamaz truck . It carries a mix of freight and passengers and cost a mere 20 GEL, that's standing in the back out in the open. Remember it can get very cold when going over the pass and there might even be cloud cover at 3,000 m. On the other hand it is easy to get sunburned so be prepared- take food, there are no fancy cafes on the way .This giant truck lurches its way precariously from Alvani up to Tusheti, taking around 8 to 9 hours to Omalo but that's an optimistic guess. I understand the Kamaz leaves any time between 6am and noon, once they have a fullish load.

You might like to consider a Marshrutnoye taksi ,otherwise known as a marshrutka to take you to Alvani from Tbilisi .The role of the modern marshrutka is similar to minicabs in other countries except there are sometimes some changes to the marshrutka which do allow for standing capacity.If it helps I'm told Marshrutkas run to Alvani from Telavi for 8 lari, 45 minutes, once or twice an hour, 9am to 5pm from the Ortachala bus station.

The following distances might help when planning a trip

Tbilisi – Telavi 160 km.·

Telavi – Pshaveli village 32 km.·

Tbilisi – Akhmeta 170 km.·

Pshaveli village – Omalo 72 km - a short distance but very slow trip

Tbilisi – Kvemo Alvani 190 km.·

Telavi – Kvemo Alvani 22 km.·

Akhmeta – Kvemo Alvani 16 km.·

Kvemo Alvani – Omalo 90 km.

For those of you who are lucky to have the spare cash you can take the helicopter to Tusheti from Tiblisi. My daughter caught the helicopter on her return this summer from Shenako kindly provided by one of the village elders . The following image is of the helicopter delivering provisions to the army but I know the helocopter will make bespoke trips.

Once you have arrived in Tusheti the true mode of transport is the horse and we are not talking pack horses. These versatile, fleet of foot ponies have remarkable stamina. If you have the chance and can ride make the most of it and throw the rule book away. Tushetians will ride without stirrups and with any tack they can lay their hands on. Given the chance they will race at break neck speed just because they can.
This picture was contributed by giorgi bakuridze. Thanks Gio

A bit of History and background to Tusheti

2009-04-15T15:17:00.000-07:00

Map of Georgia

In 1975, the Georgian State Museum sponsored an archaeological expedition headed by Rusudan Dolaberidze. She carried out excavations on 'Nishtako' hill. This is located at the border of the village of Shenako, close to Omalo . The excavations revealed a terrace type of settlement characteristic to this mountainous area. She discovered 3 layers of different cultural ages: the 1-3.century B.C., the 3-4 century A.D. and the 6-8 century A.D.
Materials from the late Bronze & Early Iron Ages were found on 'Kurekhi' hill. This included everyday items. If you are interested the relics from this discovery are now kept at the National Museum of Georgia.

The earliest historical reference to Tusheti refers to the 3rd century B.C. this was during the reign of the first King of Georgia Parnavaz. This early written account belongs to a Greek geographer of the 2nd century A.D. called Ptolemaus who wrote about the geographical settlement of the Tushs . He went on to describe the Caucasian tribes - 'There are the Tusks ('Tuskoi' means 'Tushs') and the Diduri (the 'Didoels') between Caucasus and Kervani Mountains.'

Tusheti can be found in region 5 tucked up between Dagestan and Chechen

From what I can understand the Tush population is divided into two parts – Tsova Tushs and Chaghma Tushs. There is little difference between these two groups apart from their language. The Chaghma Tushs speak one common language, a Georgian language dialect, which together with Pshav, Khevsurian and Mokhevian dialects is linguistically close to the Pkhovian group of the Georgian dialects. Are you still with me? The Tsova Tushs speak two languages. In informal surroundings, they commonly speak Tsova Tushetian or Batsbian. They speak the dialect somewhat similar to the Kahetian dialect of the Georgian language outside their homes. Please please contact me if this is incorrect since as an Englishman I can only note down what I’ve read and learned from my good friends.

So there you have it. Tusheti has been inhabited for a considerable time .There is some dispute over which tribes dominated this region due to the language of scholars confusing the names of different tribes but I think it is fair to say the Tush were named 'Tushs' by the Lezghins referring to the word 'Dusht' meaning 'Enemy'. The Kists referred to the bravest warriors as 'Enemies'. This name may well be associated with a pagan deity of the Kists 'Tushol' I’ll stop here before I confuse myself. What is clear is the Tush were revered by all their neighbors and have inhabited the region since 1-3.century B.C.

It was not until the 9th century that the Tushs adopted Christianity. Since then they have had close contacts with the population of the plain, particularly that of Kaheti. The King of Kahetians Levan II (1520-1574) was among the first kings to open the way for the Tushs to the Alazani Valley, the home of some excellent wine.

The story goes in the XVII-XVIII centuries; the Tushs greatly supported the kings of Kartli and Kaheti in the wars at that time with the kingdom of Persia. As testament to the Tush’s bravery King Erekle II had several Tush warriors attending his court known as’ the bravest ones’. Zezva Gaprindauli was seen at that time as one of those ‘brave ones’ perhaps the greatest hero of Tusheti. His name is linked with the historical battle of Bakhtrioni. After freeing Bakhtrioni from the Persians in a very bloody battle the elders of the Tushs asked the King for a fertile homeland as a reward. The King agreed, but under one condition – he would grant the elders the homeland up to the point an elder rode his horse non-stop from Bakhtrioni. Our man Zezva rode his horse until it fell down dead. A good day for the Tush but a bad day for the horse. The King gratefully gave this small region to the Tushs where the towns of Kvemo Alvani and Zemo Alvani have been built along with many villages such as Laslisquir, a village close to my heart and where many people from Shenako live.

Many Tushetians live to this day in this area, especially in the winter months when those who make a living in the mountains come down to the plains to over winter their livestock.
If you have ever visited this area your will have noticed the abundance of fresh produce. The fertile plains are fed by an unrelenting supply of water from the Caucuses. This warm Mediterranean style climate is a perfect combination for farming and a magnificent place to eat, drink and live life to the full.

Traditions and culture in Tusheti

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Please click on this map to enlarge. The place name spellings are on occasion incorrect but close enough and who's to say how the village names should be spelt.

This map is kindly donated from the Tusheti national reserve web site

Festivals

The first and most important festival of the year for the Tush is “Atnigenoba”. Scholars will tell you it starts on the hundredth day after Easter and continues for two weeks. Well if you know the Tush you will smile and disagree - slightly. In principle Atnigenoba does start one hundred days after Easter but again this is an animist festival and therefore any festival days must work around the Christian calendar and in Georgia this is a complex issue. The Georgian Church is, one if not the oldest Christian faiths in the western world and as such the Christian calendar can influence festival dates if there is any conflict of interest. What is clear is the first festival kicks off around one hundred days after Easter and villages in the region will choose their own dates based on an element of tradition and what the elders can agree amongst themselves. A sort of well organised muddle, nothing fixed but at the same time there is a structure to these things. Now at this point I ask you to consider the idea of a bunch of well meaning enthusiastic Christian festival gowers attending an animist (pagan) festival. Well it works and what’s more, it makes sense. So read on.

At each summer village festival (Atnigenoba) there is a host. The “Shulta”, an exceptionally important person who is elected by the village for a year. Elected ,it’s more a question of ‘it’s your turn since your family haven’t done it for years’ or 'your brilliant at this type of thing and the family who should put forward a Shulta can’t do it this year'.In my home village we have the same situation when trying to find someone to chair a committee to run a local fete (a rural English festival). In short the Shulta is the fixer, party maker and catalyst to make it happen. An essential ingredient to a good party and we all know who they are. My accountant isn’t one but my wife thinks I should take the role up as a profession.

Two great men and me in the middle, in the Shenako beer hut. And yes you noticed we are not sober, perhaps that's why we are hanging onto each other.

At an indeterminate time before the great day a posse of men will take to the beer hut, a small house in the village built to brew beer and prepare food. If the Shulta is a man he will take control and manage the proceedings. If it’s a women ,well that can’t happen since the beer hut is a men only affair. This is Georgia and only girls before menstruation age can attend the beer hut. The beer is brewed, a very weak cloudy mixture. Often there will be good stuff for the women and another batch for the men. This elixir is brewed in vast copper caldron's and I think this experience is more about the collective spirit of men working together than the straight forward process of preparing food and drink .It’s all about sharing a few stories and generally having fun. In short this experience is hard wired into all men who want to control the barbecue, except the Tush know how to get drunk with greater style and enthusiasm and they also make all their own beer and ram stew for the festival.

This brew house or beer hut in Upper Omalo has been recently rebuilt. Notice the copper Cauldron in the top right .

This shot was taken just minutes before our Ram met his maker.

From my limited experience each village have their own approach to the proceedings. The sacrificial rams for the festival ( didn’t I mention the rams) are taken to the khatis (shrine) and slaughtered very swiftly by the person who has donated the said ram. You can imagine the situation ‘A village family finds themselves naturally selected since it is generally agreed by the village that this year is their turn to provide a Ram for the festival and they have to find the cash and make the donation’.A tough call if money is short. The ram’s blood is then splashed onto the khakis, a prayer is said and the slaughterer eats some bread ,drinks some Chacha (vodka) ,salty cheese and all the attendees do much the same but in a very relaxed manner while sharing some good stories.

Now for the good bit. The rams are strung up, skinned and generally prepared for the pot. If you find this squeamish turn the other way. A small fire is prepared and the ram’s testicles are barbecued. Great food and not for the girls since this is a boys only event.

The first time around I was slightly shocked. The second, well it all makes sense,especially if you are following the animist tradition and Rams are deeply symbolic in Georgia.

As the mornings celebrations continued some of the lads did a bit of sit down dancing to the penny whistle . Well sitdown dancing is much easier after a few Chacha's

The next bit of the festival proceedings I don’t get but I understand there is another person called a “Khelosani”, He is the appointed person who has the right “to bring out” a banner and ring the bells to inform the beginning of the “Atnigenoba”.Banners are not seen everywhere in Tusheti although Parsma have a pretty magnificent affair. Once the banner (a flag) is brought out, the “Khelosani” blesses it with a cry “aludi. Well that’s the scholar version.

The following three images were taken at a festival in Verkovani. This was a festival where horse riders throughout the valley participated and it's the only record I have of Banners or Flags but it gives one an idea of how they are used.

This example of a banner/flag on the khakis in Verkovani was to play an important part in the festival horse race. I arrived on my own and was promptly invited to drink some Chacha at the khakis which must have been the strongest spirit I've ever drunk, close to aircraft fuel ,so be warned .

I can only presume the gentleman holding the flag is the Khelosani.At the time I thought they were simply village elders.

After the race the winner here was presented with the flag. He then rode up onto the hills looking down on the festival to display his trophy. A brilliant race and make no mistake this lad took his life into his own hands to win a race of magnificent horsemanship and bravery .

Kakha Khimshiashvili provided this picture

This photo was taken in the summer of 2009 in the village Dano and the following day the village festival was held.

One of the important aspects of the festival preparation is the flag.In this instance the flag was taken from the village depository and a young man from Shulta family took the flag to a shrine somewhere high in the mountains. The tradition is the flag should spend a night in the shrine and next morning is taken back to the village and festival begins. Kakha took this picture from a great distance hence the scale of the image. The boy is running as swiftly as he can in the belief that the flag should reach the shrine as soon as possible, if he managed to reach the shrine without stopping his village will have good luck for the following year.

From my very limited experience the cry ‘aludi’ ,which sounds more like aluday, is also sung as chorus by all the men attending the ritual slaughter of the ram. This cry is sung out three times by the assembled men with deep resonance, ringing out across the valley. The men continue to make their cry of ‘aludi’ while toasting the day’s celebrations with Chacha and preparing the rams for the pot. I’ve included a picture earlier in this section illustrating a musician ,who when I last attended such a festival played the sweetest melody as we all took part in this ancient ritual

This ritual in Shenako of throwing men over a wall ,if they don't have sons, might sound amusing but in the summer of 2008 one chap broke an arm ,another was concussed and a third had a very swollen ankle after his flying activities . I was sleeping off the Chacha and luckily missed this event. My advice is if you are a man, stay well away or make sure you have a son at hand to prove your position.

With all this speak of rituals I'm missing out on the main and possibly the most important aspect of the festival . The feasts!

I'm sure there is a rhyme and even a reason to the order of these things but it's very difficult to work out when you are in the thick of the festival . In short on festival days men and women eat separately .After the mornings Ram slaughter the meat is prepared and lunch is layed out in a long line with revelers squatting on a trunk. Subsequent feasts might feature a special breakfast for men only. Women might have their own fun during spontaneous affairs and Khinkali is made by all the village later in the festival .

In Shenako the festivities can last between 3 to 4 days or was I so drunk I lost or gained a few days. Who can tell ,each day blends into another as the celebration gets a full head of steam.

Festival feasts

The following pictures are an illustration of some of the magnificent feasts I've attended and some of the personalities who attended .

Gaumarjos ( the Tusheti toast)

This is a typical selection of food provided at the festival but without the meat. If you are a vegetarian, have no worries. You will eat like a king - or queen for that matter .

I found this picture from a file of discarded images but thought it might help illustrate Chacha drinking during festivals . Most families will have their own Chacha horn for drinking local vodka in fact I have two.The drinking horn has tremendous significance throughout Georgia but at the village level ,during festivals time, the horn is used for toasting and helps endorse the connection with the all important Ram.

I came across my wife and daughters having a fantastic time at this spontaneous women's party.later the accordion came out and the women used their bread making bowls as makeshift drums.

This lad dancing in the center of the picture is not local ( he's from Chechnya) and the night before he got into a scrap after making a pass at local girl. All is now forgiven as our hot headed Chechayan gets on down but in another time he might have lost his life to flirt with a local girl.

Here are the men getting down to business eating and drinking and if drinking is not your bag- think of an exit strategy .

Another feast on yet another day and as always the men stick with the men.

In this picture the Tamada ( toast master) is telling us men folk why life is so wonderful and we all drink to that. Most of the toasts seemed to lack imagination but boy are they from the heart.

This is our Chechnya lad on festival day strutting his stuff on a local Tush horse. The sight to see was him as he took off like a bullet after asking me if he could talk with my daughters. And just talk he promised .

Here are the ladies of Shenako getting down to the the festivities. The cheese, pickle , bread, salad veg and Rams meat was wonderful and all washed down by either Chacha or beer. I never saw a jug of water on offer .

The women have all the fun at another grand picnic. You can see our Shulta pouring more drinks in the background.

More spontaneous partying by the women, keeping cool in the midday shade.

After our Chechnya lad had finished riding the girls took over racing around the village.
During the main festival day lads will race around the festivities getting ready for the afternoons racing event.

Khinkali

At the end of the festivities it's time to make Khinkali. This is a type of meat dumpling made from the ram slaughterd at the beginning of festival. Khinkali is the national dish for Georgians and some of the finest Khinkali can be found in Tusheti. This picture was taken in Gogrulta with Socrat and his grandson, Lily is in the background making the Khinkali. Not a festival occasion but excellent Khinkali demonstration. Note the wooden tray.

This is Lily demonstrating the art of Khinkali making. A shot not taken at a festival but it helps illustrate how the dumplings are made.

Khinkali is normally made by all the women folk in the village. Because of a clash of Christain calenders in the summer of 2008 this Khinkali was made at home as a family affair and with only one candle.

The village women from Shenako collectively making Khinkali for the festival .Notice the bottles for rolling pins and the cups to cut out the dough disks.

Crafts in Tusheti

Tusheti is not simply a place for festivals, although they are appreciated when the occasion rises. The region has a rich tradition of craft and a culture synomonus with the mountains. Sadly this is where our story lacks the lustre and brilliance one would have hoped for.
In the race to adopt a modern way of life many of the crafts have now slipped away with the passage of time.Partially due to economic considerations but also because of pressure from Russia when it yeilded power.

Although a significant number of Tushetians make a living from the moutains as sheperds, weaving and especialy carpet weaving has almost died out.

Tusheti carpet and Kilm making is hard to find. My wife found this Kilm in Pasma being aired out in the sun.

I'm told that there is a carpet maker in the Alvani at a place called the "Carpet House" and Marani (wine cellar) . The Marani in Alvani is apprently a good example of traditional winemaking, where almost all traditional household winemaking implements and vessels are still preserved. Visitors can taste the wines aged according to traditional practices and in addition, visitors have an opportunity to taste honey and locally made honey vodka - Santlis araki. Santlis means honey wax and araki is vodka in general .The same family operates a carpet house on the second floor of their building. Tushetian sheep wool is processed, dyed with natural dyes and used for the manufacture of carpets, tapestry and other handicrafts.
The Alvani Marani /"Carpet House" is located about 3-4 km distance from Alaverdi cathedral, so you can take a trip and kill two birds with one stone.

Contact Lili Murtazashvili Phone: +995 55 91 21 45

What is more common are the carpets thrown over the horse and often sported by the young lads hurtling around the mountains on their magnificent steeds.

The PomPoms are a common decoration to the horse carpet.

This working saddle made by Socrat illustrating Tusheti craftmanship in leather.You can just make out a felt in grey used with most saddles but sadly the felts arer no longer made in Tusheti.

The two preceeding images of felts were found by my wife in Parsma as villages hung their bed linen out to air on arrival for the summer festival.

This out of focus image pictures an elderly lady selling her Tushetian slippers (Chitti) in Pasma 2007. Perhaps one of the last vestages of traditional dress in Tusheti. On occasions people will sew PVC soles to thier slippers. I can vouch they are extreamly comfortable and great for the winter .I've sewn leather soles to mine and they are wonderful

In modern Georgia it is difficult to find examples of traditional Tushetian dress. There is a small museum in Upper Omalo where impliments are displayed but to my knowleged Tusheti does not have an ethnographic museum of its own,which is a shame. There is a folk museum in Tibilisi but it's always been closed when I've attempted to visit .However I'm told by my daughter it is well worth the visit.

The following pictures illustrate some of the costumes my wife and I have been lucky enough to find on our travels in Tushti. I've noticed young Georgians are starting to wear traditional dress at weddings so there is hope that Georgia can hang on to its traditional dress and not loose a thousand years of tradition abd rich culture.

If I remember correctly the coins on this jacket are dated from around the 40's and 50's and judging from much of the other marterial I think this jacket is about 50 years old.

The embroidery panels are woven on a similar loom to a Kilm.

My wife is quite tall but I think she does a fair job as a cloths horse although she is very self consious in this picture . In it's day this garment must have looked wonderful with the mixture of madder , weild and indigo dyed material.

I thought this shot might be interesting since it illustrates a combination of the kilm in natural wool and the traditional jerkin.

Kakha Khimshiashvili has been good enough to help me clarify a number of points and has also provided a couple of very interesting pictures.

This is a picture by one of Georgia's most renowed painters from XX century,Tengiz Mirzashvili. He had a passion for Tusheti and painted a number of paintings of the region.

Tengiz Mirzashvili died in 2008

This image of a mourning family in Shenako was kindly donated by Irma Chvritidze. Sadly I don’t know the date of the picture but it illustrates the dress of the Tush ,possibly in the early 20th century, and the ritual of laying out the cloths of the deceased for close family to mourn.

In the top right hand corner there appeares to be a funeral pyre but I may be wrong.

Geography and weather of Tusheti

2009-04-13T09:18:00.000-07:00

Georgia is a country the size of Switzerland but proud of some of the highest mountains in Europe and Tusheti represents the very best of those mountains. OK there are others in Georgia but these are hard to beat.

It's situated beyond the main Ridge of Caucasioni, on its Northern slope, between the latitudes 42°32´-42°22´ North and longitudes 63°17´-63°22´ East. Have a look at Google maps .

The region is about 1650 -4493 meters above sea level and covers around 896 square kilometers of territory. Really quite small but don't be fooled it's size. This is high country and at times quite difficult to get from A to B without a mountain in the way.

The climate in Tusheti is considerd to be continental and according to the web the average temperature in July- August is around 14-15°C although on a daily basis it can be a great deal hotter. The average tempreature in January and February is 3-8C although the tempreature can go as low as -13 to -15 C. Snow can last for around 5 to 6 months during the winter and fall to a depth of approx 2 meters (I've seen in far deeper) but I understand this can be as little as 0.3 metres although I would like to know when?

The annual rainfall ,hail and snow combined is approximately 450-900 mm and around 69% falls between April and September.

You can expect cloud on 5,5 days in the summer months but for most of the summer the sky is clear once the morning mist has cleared.

Hail is uncommon while sleet is quite usual. This is not to say it never happens, when it does make sure you are safe.

Tusheti is not windy and there is often a soft breeze throughout the day.

The Average speed of wind is 7-14 MPS and wind blows only 10% of time in year.

So Tusheti is exceptionally cold in the winter and pleasantly warm in the summer with potentially chilly nights.(making it easy to sleep in high summer unlike other parts of Georgia)

As climates go Tusheti has it's dramtic moments with violent rain or hail in the summer but these are short lived leaving behind a magical climate in the summer months . Be very careful about the sun and use sunblock,especially lip balm.On a long hike the sun will take its casualties.

Remember don't be fooled by many of the statistics you might find on the web.Weather conditions in the mountains can change swiftly and extremes can occur with little or no notice. Always be prepared for wet weather in the summer and expect on occasions exceptionally cold nights in the summer. A good example was a trip we took to Oreti lake . In the space of 10 mins we came across a hail storm with hail the size of peas and within 30 mins we were ankle deep in ice. This was after a magnificent climb in T shirts and no sign of the appalling weather to come.

Back to the facts .

Tusheti sits on the boarder of Dagestan in the east, Pshav-Khevsureti in the west, Chechnya-Ingushetia in the north and Eastern Kaheti in the south. The region is bordered with high ridges at around 3000-4500 meters. Among them, the most gorgeous is the northern ridge with its magnificent high peaks: Tebulo Mount (4492 m), Komito (4261 m), Dano Mount (4174 m) and Diklosmta (4285 m). These peaks make up the Tusheti Alps, dividing it from Chechnya-Ingushetia. You will need a good map to get to grips with these facts.

Inner Tusheti is made up from deep valleys ( gorges),mainly the Pirikiti Gorge in the north and Gometseri Gorgia in the south. Chagma or Chanchakhovani is considerd the third but I always thought it lead into Pirikiti. Any ideas??

There are footpaths from the Pirikiti Gorge to Gometseri Gorge connecting the two valley's. These are the paths of Larovani (3317 m) and Nakle-Kholi (2903 m) both of which can be ridden on horseback with the most amazing Tusheti horse's. There is a road that takes you between Pirikiti and Gometseri but I have no idea what it's called, however it's the road taken by all the 4WD Lada's.

This mountainous region is a blend of turbulant rivers and ravines fed by cascading streams and waterfalls ,all flowing into the two main rivers of Tusheti – the Gometseri Alazani and Pirikiti Alazani. The Gometseri Alazani is born from the mountain called Borbalo (3134 m) flowing swiftly to the east. Between the hamlets of Gogurlta and Dochu the Ortskali river flows into the Gometsari Alazani while the Chanchakhovani Tskali flows into Gometsari Alazani at the village of Khakhabo.

The Pirikita Alazani flows from the Amugo Mountain (3839 m) and below the village of Hegho, the Larovani Tskali it joins the Pirikita as it flows north-east, in parallel to the Gometsari Alazani. As this river flows it met by the running waters from the Tusheti Alps. These are: Hashaki Tskali, Katsi Tskali, Dano Tskali, Kvavlo Tskali and others.

As I've mentioned earlier the two Alazanis meet each other at the village of Shenako creating one torrent flowing towards Dagestan, where I've discoverd the river becomes known as the ‘Andis Koisu’flowing onto the Caspian Sea as the ‘ Sulaki’. In short there's loads of water and fording these rivers and streams is a daily occurance as you travel around the region .

The following pictures are an illustration of the peaks , passes and boarders we encountered while traveling in Tusheti . A sort of family selection of great views demonstrating the terrain with a couple of river shots, well it paints a picture.,

This shot is taken from Oreti Lake. A Glacial lake looking down on the Chagma Valley.

And here is Oreti lake to put the previous shot into context. Don't be fooled this is a vast landscape.

The two valleys at the centre of this shot are Pirikiti on the right and Gometseri on the left .

It's difficult to appreciate this picture but it illustrates where the Abano pass is looking down from Oreti lake. I believe the pass is to the left on the horizon but what do I know?

This is a shot taken first thing in the morning looking out across Tusheti . You can see Chechnya on the horizon.

This picture illustrates the early stages of the Nakle Khole pass and the Pirikit valley below.

This is Melissa taking a rest at the top of the Nakle Khole pass after riding up from Parsma.It offers a good idea of the mountain range beyond Tusheti and of course a picture of my wife. You can expect to climb up onto the pass in the space of a morning. Coming down is a great deal easier but expect such a trip to take a day.

Here are my two daughters after climbing up onto the Nakle Khole pass. Well worth the climb ,providing Golden Eagles and Swifts in abundance - absolutely magical . Yes the horse's are very tired indeed. In the summer of 2007 I slipped off my horse and twisted my wrist just as we got to the top. Very stupid and made harder by the fact it rained while walking our horse's down off the pass to Verkhovani. My advice is be prepared for the worse and remember the mountains are to be respected at all times.

This is a view roughly from around Gogrulta looking across the Gometseri Gorge. Notice the foal, this was her first trip with her mother.

An odd shot but it illustrates the boarder between Tusheti and Dagestan. And of course the Georgian flag. Don't imagine you can cross into Dagestan with ease. The boarder guards are keeping a beedy eye out for anyone attempting to make a crossing.

This shot is taken of the Pirikiti Alazani flowing down from Hegho and Parsma

The girls fording one of the may tributaries feeding the Pirikiti A

More images to follow

Tusheti vernacular architecture

2009-04-12T00:37:00.000-07:00

This is a traditional house seen in Parsma. The open veranda is possibly early 20th century and the rest of the building is most likely much earlier .

This is a tough subject for me since I can only recount what I’ve observed on my travels and subsequently gleaned from fellow travellers and my family. Please contact me if you know of any information I've provided is incorrect.

This beguiling region is largely made from a small Hamlets where the dwellings are of constructed from wood and stone. Peppered around the landscape are fortified towers and in some villages such as Parsma ,imposing fortresses from a distant age can be found.
Most of the scholarly accounts concentrate on the towers and fortresses. These edifices, poised like sentinels across Tusheti peer down the valleys, watching time slowly slip by as we hurtle into the twenty first century.

I would like to focus first on the vernacular homes built by the Tush. To my mind these humble buildings are as equally exciting as the statuesque towers and continue to hold their own equally fascinating secrets of the past.

One of my favourite examples of a two story house built in the late 1900's in Shenako

By the end of 19th century domestic architecture for the Tush had evolved into a house with balcony, including ornamental work such as decorated doors and windows with fretwork balconies. A prime example being the decorative fretwork found on the balcony, probably dating from the early 20th century. Unfortunately this fretwork is not a local vernacular but a feature taken from the merchant homes to be seen in cities such Tbilisi ,as is much of the detailing .I'm told this is most likely influenced by houses at that time seen in Telavi although many of these examples are no lost.

These are typical merchant houses to be seen in Tbilisi. I think I prefer the Tusheti version of the balcony detail.

A magnificent balcony detail to be seen in Upper Omalo.

I thought this balcony illustrates the eclectic style to be seen in villages such as Shenko, with iron railings and terrific fretwork.This type of detailing would have been created over a period of time with improvements made when the cash was availble .

The man in the foreground is one of the oldest men in Shenako.

Homes in Tusheti are largely built from dry construction with slate walls supporting both the floor joists and rafters. Similar construction can be seen in the mountainous region of southern Bulgaria such as the village of Dolen. The first floor in the contemporary style (I’m sorry if you are American and are getting confused at this point, in England we call the first floor what you would call the second floor) often reveals a wooden terrace or balcony contained by slate walls with large stone slates on the roof .

Scene over some classic roofs in Shenako.

An excellent example contributed by Kakha Khimshiashvili

This can be pitched on either one or two sides but most commonly two. The Tush started to construct this type of housing from the mid 19th century when life in Tusheti became less treacherous and the chances of marauding tribes from across the boarders were diminishing.
For me a good example of the late 19th century style can be found in Shenako where the village was totally rebuilt after a plague hit the old village, leaving the survivors to build their new homes out of reverence for their dead on a site nearby. Here the principle of the balcony is most prevalent. Much of the timber work is highly decorated and remnants of brightly covered decoration can still be found on many of the homes.

This Shenako balcony demonstrates how colour was used in a previous era. It must have look wonderful in it's day.

These homes were built as the winter quarters in Shenako. Often built with mud and cow dung render and on rare occasions I beleive lime mortar render has been used but this has not been varified . These homes lack the fortifications see in other areas and I've not seen quite so much render on other homes .

As with many of the homes in Tusheti , the ground floor is dedicated to stock while the family lives on the first floor. The open rafters are used to store dry goods .

Upper Omalo had nearly fallen into total disrepair but now the village is undergoing a rebirth. Here are some excellent examples of late 19th century construction built around homes from an earlier era.

At the other end of the Pirikiti valley you will find examples of the early construction. Single story homes hugging the ground to keep the hostile winters at bay. The windows in these homes are very small ,similar to the crofts found in Scotland.

This image illustrates the older style of construction ,pre late 19th century in Parsma .Often but not exclusively single story buildings clustered tightly together.

In other parts of Tusheti one can find homes built on the principle of a fortress. In such instances the buildings can reach five stories high. I can only think these buildings grew over time to contain the extended family .

This view looking down on the village of Dochu illustrates some of the taller homes to be found in Tusheti. I imagine the balconies clinging to the side of these fine buildings area recent addition . I spent a night in Dochu with my family in 2007 and found it amusing to observe the villages spying each other with their binoculars. In the summer 2008 we spend a couple of days in Gogurlta on the opposite side of the gorge. They also kept an eye on their distant neighbours with binoculars.

If you are familiar with the buildings in Leshten and Kovachevitsa in Bulgaria you will see an uncanny similarity.

Another view of Dochu and their magnificent buildings . Far off in the distance you can make out Gogurlta. The ruined building in the foreground is a derelict tower with the roof missing.

This picture of a number of houses in Dartlo demonstrates typical Tusheti towers in the background sitting within the village settlement.

This fortress style home can be see in Iliurta where one of two Tusheti churches still remain. The strange stick appearing from the roof is a makeshift aerial . You can just see the balcony to the left. A perfect vantage point to see visitors arriving up the trail approaching the village .

This is a rare example of a woven birch batten wall to be seen in Upper Omalo. I understand other examples can be found in Shatili -Khevsureti region

Many of the 19th century buildings have simple additions such as this lean-to. A kitchen and dinning room combined . Notice the abundance of stock fencing to keep the chickens out.

This classic Tusheti farm house is to be found high in the mountains in Gogurlta. The ground floor is used for stock, open rafters to dry crops. A terrace on the front on the living quarters and I expect to the right sits the dairy.

Roofs in Tusheti are traditionally made from large natural slates, however these often leak so with the advent of the steel panels many of the slate roofs have been replaced. In some cases the slate has been replaced on top of the steel panel due to the slates weight, essentially keeping the panel in place. This is especially important when violent storms occur in the winter and the wind rips off the gutter edge of the panels . In some instances blue polythene is used as the water proof layer .

Tin houses are not uncommon in Tusheti especially with the more recent construction . Omalo is almost totally built in this manner. The home here is to be found in Dartlo.

This tin home is where we stayed in Parsma in the summer of 2008. The view was spectacular and the home very comfortable.

Parsma has this magnificent fortress which would have been used by the villages when threatened by attacks from neighbouring Dagestan

In this picture we can see one of the fortresses to be found in Parsma. These magnificent dry construction buildings would easily have kept enemies at bay. The door on the ground floor is very low indeed making it difficult for the attacked to enter.

Chigho is one of the most remote inhabited villages in Tusheti. Perched on the side of the mountain the trail from Shenako. Chigho makes for a breathtaking stopping off point to take in the magnificent landscape.Chigho has some excellent examples of fortified homes although due to their remote position many are in danger of deteriorating due to dwindling population .

Thanks to Giorgi Bakuridze for contributing this picture.

The follwing two images provided by Kakha Khimshiashvili are of Upper Omalo .They represent Omalo in the nineteenth and beginning of the twentieth century. One photo is date 1880 which is interesting . The first pictures were taken France in 1813 1816 . Modern photography began in the 1820s

Modern Upper Omalo looks very different from these pictures but the syle of buildings can be seen all over Tusheti .

Watch this space more to follow

The following pictures are for a new section on Architecture in Tusheti talking about churches and other topics Draft.

There appears to be around three types of religious architecture in Tusheti: pre-Christian (pagan), pagan-Christian (syncretic) and Christian.

Buildings that are pre-Christian architecture are called “Djvar-Khati”. These are often sacral, religious buildings made up from small-size constructions with towers, shelters for clergy and other building/shrines for religious rituals made out of shale/slate .

Monuments of syncretic architecture include small-size chapels from the medieval period. These constructions were often created for burials facing from west to east. Good examples can be found in Dartlo, Gudaanta, Tsaro.

Holy Trinity Church in Shenako built in the XX century . The only restored and fully working Georgian Orthodox church in Tusheti .

This wonderful Christian church in the hamlet of Iliurta is now in very poor condition and infrequently used but it still provides a rare insight into vernacular chapel construction to be seen throughout Georgia .

The building top left is a chapel in Parsma, however I understand this predates the other Christian churches in Tusheti and is not used for Christian services and is most likely syncretic . It's used for festivals and as a result it plays a dual role as a chapel and a sacred place for animist.

A pre-Christian shrine or Khati.

An excellent example of a fortress in Parsma.

Sheep dogs in Tusheti

2009-04-11T01:02:00.000-07:00

photo: Y Z Ograk

The Kangal

During our travels across the Carpathians, Balkans, and the Caucuses we often came across some magnificent sheep dogs. With their ears clipped (apparently in case of a fight with a wolf,) and often standing as high as a mastiff. These kings of the mountain slopes appeared an indestructible beast. Fearless and totally at one with their hostile environment. I had never seen anything like them in the UK and presumed they were just the local sheep dog until I discovered this breed comes from the central Anatolian plateau. This is a vast, inhospitable expanse of mountain and steppe. It’s large enough to accommodate the British Isles three times over and only sparsely populated. The climate ranges from 40C in summer to -30C in winter, or even lower in the eastern mountains. Grazing in this region is too sparse and the terrain and weather too harsh for cattle, hence the mainstay of the economy and village life is sheep rearing and the Kangal sheep dog plays a significant part in that process.

We later discovered the Kangal is often used in regions where shepherds live a transhumant life, where whole flocks, and often most of the population of the village, migrate to summer pastures (in Turkey this is called yaylalar) and back with the changing seasons. Life is exceptionally hard for the Turkish shepherd, and his livelihood depends to a great extent on his one valuable asset – his dog. It is hardly surprising the Kangal has been traded for centuries by Turkish shepherds and they have found their way across borders into similar inhospitable regions. In Tusheti the Kangal is frequently found although many are cross bred and lack the stature of the Turkish pure bred. If you come across one be sure to keep your stick with you and point is at him .While you are on his turf you are not his friend and understandably he will not rest until you have passed his flock by.

For more information try this excellent site . http://www.kangalkopegi.org/

Places to stay in Tusheti

2009-04-10T00:37:00.000-07:00

The view over Upper Omalo from one of the Keslo towers . You can just make out the roof of Upper Omalo 2005 Guesthouse at 2 o'clock . A good place to start your travels in Tusheti .

Introduction

When I was last in Tusheti in the summer of 2008 eco- tourism was just taking off and there were just a few Guesthouses and a small number of welcoming Homestays. Since then new Guesthouses appear to be popping up all over Tusheti . With interest from travelers rapidly growing in Tusheti I thought it would be useful to list some of the places I've encountered and others I've recently discovered during conversations with fellow travelers and hard to find information from the web.

The following list is a simple introduction to Homestays in Tusheti plus a basic list of Guesthouses I understand can now be found around Tusheti . Please don't take this list as a recommendation but it might help fellow travelers when attempting to find somewhere to stay and possibly provide a little insight into what we have experienced as a family. I should add you can read between the lines the places I prefer.

What is the difference between a Guesthouse and a Homestay?

Tusheti now has a number of Guesthouses, these have either been built with government aid ( partially a rumour but I believe this to be the case) such as the Guesthouses in Upper Omalo, Dochu ,Verkhovani and Chesho or built independently as have the Guesthouses in Omalo ,Dartlo , Gogulta and Verkhovani .

Guesthouses are purpose built for tourists and managed by a family or dedicated staff. Rooms are often basic but clean and a shower is invariably provided . In my experience you will not stay directly with the family but I'm sure there are exceptions .

A Homestay is very different . One stays directly in your hosts home, a spare room is made up ,you may eat with the family and share their lives directly. The Mother of the household cooks and prepares all your food and you share all the families washing and toilet facilities. I have never experienced a shower in such situations, just a bucket of warm water heated over the fire or Calor gas stove.
On occasions there are blends between a Guesthouse and Homestay such as Lilies house in Gogurlta and possibly Patties house in Verkhovani ,both of which my family thought were excellent. However as time passes I suspect the more casual arrangements at some of the old Gueshouses will have become more professional .

Homestays

Shenako

Zao and Nino's Homestay center of the picture .

Zao and Nino run a small dairy farm in Shenako. Nino takes paying guest once and a while and the accommodation is simple . Nino's food is brilliant and as you would expect her cheese is first class , all from their own cows. Homestays are not yet publicised but if you ask around folk will often point you in the right direction. Ask for Zao in Shenako. I understand a number of villagers in Shenako now offer accommodation.

A few observations on Homestays in Tusheti

Homestays are invariably simple in Tusheti and eating arrangements are very casual . Don't be surprised if a couple of strangers sit down with you at your table.There is always plenty to go around and this is often the way well wishers will want to meet and share a Cha Cha (local vodka) or two with you . Remember by staying at a Homestay you are sharing your hosts family life and friends come and go. In Tusheti the kitchen table is sacred it's the place where tales are told, bread is broken between friends and a couple of glasses of the cherished Cha Cha are toasted.

This a very typical breakfast table found in a homestay and as you can see very relaxed with a wealth of alternative options to choose from .

Homestay kitchens in Tusheti are often very basic so don't expect to find five star service or any star ,just wonderful home cooking and a pride in Tusheti .

Not all Homestays have a gas stove and we frequently came across an open fire like this one which adds to the cooking flavours and the overall experience.

OK this might appear a scruffy Homestay room but this is Tusheti in the wilderness. Homestays have their charm but if you are after manicured comfort stay in the Gueshouses but be warned . Guesthouses lack the true grit and essence of Tusheti which I believe can only be experienced while living with the people of Tusheti .The choice is yours .

Toilets in Tusheti are an experience to behold. If you are looking for an exciting trip but want all the comforts of home perhaps Tusheti is not for you . Guesthouses will invariably have a respectable toilet but that's not guaranteed. Flushing toilet at Homestays would be exceptionally rare. A hole in the ground squat toilet with a dodgy shed is more likely . We used to place bets that there would not be a latch and often be right .Always take toilet paper with you although fresh moss is a refreshing change to paper. Seriously if you have problems in this area and expect all the modern convenience of western life in Tusheti think again. The up side is with the squat loo in a shed, going to the lavatory takes on a new meaning.

My family and I have been fortunate to stay in a number of other Homestays but I think it is inappropriate to provide personal details in case they have ceased providing the service. Ask around and someone will point you in the right direction. It's far better than camping.

Guest houses

The Guesthouses around Tusheti have developed significantly since 2005. Standards vary and accommodation is often rudimentary. As a basic rule expect little and you will be happy with what you find. Remember everything has to be driven by 4x4 over the pass which introduces a significant overhead for the Guesthouses and they are only open during the summer months.

The following list is not definitive but I think it's a good starting point.

Upper and Lower Omalo

Lower Omalo is the administrative centre for Tusheti and the first major village on arrival in Tusheti. Upper Omalo is the old village dominated by the Keslo towers recently restored and worth the extra walk up the hill . The walk between the Upper and Lower Omalo is about 15 mins to 20 mins.

'Upper Omalo 2005 ' Guesthouse - we stayed 2008

Upper Omalo 2005 is run by Micheil Othiuridze and can be found ,as you might expect, in Upper Omalo, just below the Keselo Towers. This Guesthouse offers full board, clean rooms and magnificent view of the Caucuses. I think we were only the second visitors to have stayed in this newly converted building in 2008. Upper Omalo 2005 is a two-storey building featuring a dining room on the ground floor ,which is nice and snug, with a number of bedrooms on the first floor. They serve good food and Cha Cha, mainly traditional Georgian dishes, although I understand European meals can also be arranged. There is hot and cold running water plus electricity, which is very unusual. The beds however are hard but don't be put off , this is quite common.
Good English is spoken by the landlord who, if I remember correctly, used to be a forester or something similar . Contact Mob: 899 67 - yes I realise this is possibly a digit short.

The following contacts also provide Homestays or Guesthouses, I'm not sure

Nugzar Idoidze Mob: 899 272265
Toma Antandze Mob: 899 389080

Nino Sekhniashvili Mob:893 173

Elisabed Ichilauri's Homestay Lower Omalo - we stayed in 2007

Elisabed Ichilauri's place is referred to as a Homestay but it is really a nice simple Guesthouse with no frills. It provides all basic amenities you will need . Toilets were outside in 2007 accompanied by some friendly frogs but I understand they now have toilets and washing facilities indoors .The house is two-storied with an excellent view of Omalo. This family-run guesthouse has a nice family feel and the food is good. The hostess cooks traditional local meals and plays the accordion if you are lucky, I thought she was brilliant. They can arrange tours to local villages and family members will guide you to any specific destination in Tusheti, well within reason. They have close contacts with the stables in Omalo.
We brought some wonderful Chitti (slippers) and socks during our stay but I understand they also sell local hats, bags and mats made from Tushetian felt.
Fairly good English spoken by one of the sons but this could have changed .

Hotel Kamsuri in Lower Omalo

I’ve never visited Hotel Kamsuri but I understand it is close to Elisabed Ichilauri's place up on the hill overlooking Omalo village.Hotel Kamsuri is referred to as a family-run hotel ( most likely Guesthouse ). The first floor features a dining area, while the bedrooms are on the second and third floors. Electricity is provided along with, hot and cold water, clean and comfortable rooms, and yes satellite television. The dining area is shared with other travellers ,which is common place and there is a TV .Why you would go all that way to watch TV goodness knows ?English is spoken

Hotel Tusheti in Lower Omalo

A very swanky hotel to be discovered as you approach Lower Omalo from the main road into Tusheti . If you like gold lame bedcovers this is the place for you.
Contacts:Vaja shabalaidze and Soso Babulaidze (+995) 99 23 11 32, 99 79 00 92
Georgian and Russian spoken no English

Pirikiti valley Guesthouses

Shenako

Shenako is the first village after Omalo when traveling up the Pirikiti valley with the only working Georgian church in Tusheti .I've written extensively about Shenako in my travel Blog 'Travels in Tusheti'. Try this entry http://travelsintusheti.blogspot.com/2008/09/our-first-destination-shenako-and-party.html .A wonderful place and well worth the visit.

Shenako Guesthouse
I found this place recently but I know very little about it.

Contact :Irakli Bukvaidze
Irakli Bukvaidze mob: 899 48 18 12

English, Georgian and Russian spoken

Dartlo

Dartlo is halfway up the Pirikiti valley and used by many as a mid way stop off point until reaching Parsma . I understand there is a new Hotel called ,surprisingly, Hotel Dartlo and one Guesthouse called Samtsikhe which is almost the first building you come cross after crossing a small bridge before entering the village.

Samtsikhe guest house - we stayed 2007

Samtsikhe is clean with a shower and inside toilet but no sense of it being a family run affair ,which I’m sure they owners would be mortified to hear.

Contact phone is Tel 893 444 229. or (+995) 99 11 89 93

When we were there in 2007 no English was spoken but I expect this will have changed

http://www.samtsikhe.ge/

Hotel Dartlo

Hotel Dartlo has its own web site http://dartlo.ge/index.html and appears to be very professional although I’ve never been there. There are 12 standard and 1 luxury room and the interior and exterior are built in the traditional style of Tusheti albeit new. Apparently the hotel has permanent electricity and hot water. This no doubt will be solar power since there is no electricity in Tusheti .Hotel Dartlo is located high above the village .GSM and apparently internet connection works perfectly. My idea of hell, the last thing I want is my office calling me on my mobile with a perfect signal.

Administration: Mariam Otiuridze admin@dartlo.ge Tel: 898 174966

Guesthouse Rapo Tsadizkidze - it might have another name

Another contact in Dartlo is Rapo Tsadzikidze who takes guest but I've no details

Contact (+995) 98 24 64 05, 98 17 49 66

Chesho - sorry no picture

When travelling up the Pirikiti valley from Omalo, the villages are separated by a comfortable distance from each other. After discovering Dartlo the village of Chesho follows a fair distance after. I’ve never had the reason to stay in Chesho village but I understand there are two guest houses. "Jiki" and "Komito". I’ve been told horses can be hired in Chesho. As with all things Tushetian take the information offered with a pinch of salt but I’m sure the hospitality will be excellent and I understand that these Guesthouses are very helpful.

Contact 899 67 42 10

Gomertsi valley Guesthouses

Dochu - in 2007 we stayed in the ajacent family house while this Guesthouse was being built

A view over Dochu from one of the Guesthouses .

I don’t get Dochu. It’s a funny place, midway along the Gomertsi valley. Not easy to see from the road, clinging to the side of a very steep valley. The houses of Dochu are built like medieval tower blocks, squinting at Gogurlta across the deep valley .There is a new guest house close to the village shrine but I can’t vouch for the facilities since it was still being built in 2007 .

I believe the contact number is 899 28 56 47 .

There is a simple path that takes you down to the river which is teaming with trout. Across the river, which is shallow enough to cross in places, you will find the beginning of the steep path up to Gogurlta. Worth the climb but very tough if you have a rucksack.

Guesthouse Kruiskari

Contact Usuph Torgvaidze

Mob: 899 285647

Georgian and Russian spoken

Another place is Paata Abuladze home who takes guest,

try Mob:899 533398

Verkhovani - we stayed here in 2007 and 2008

Patties Guest house is purpose built set apart from the main house with an amazing view of the river below.

The village of Verhovani is almost at the end of the road when travelling along the Gomertsi valley from Omalo .
Patties house can be found at the bend in the river looking back down the valley. One of our favourite places. Patties house has an excellent shower and toilet overlooking the valley. The rooms are clean and comfortable and I’ve spent many a wonderful time there. An excellent base for travelling further up country or off to Iliurta following the trail to Gogurlta. There is a nice church in Iliurta.
Although Patties place is slightly further from the Route down from Nakie - Khol pass her cooking and hospitality is well worth the extra walk or ride. Check out Patties bakery, she makes magnificent bread.

Conatct Vazha Karglidze Mob:(+995) 99 77 55 43, Tel: 8 249 24548;

Tower and old brewery in Verhovani

There is a recently converted ( 2007) tower and old brewery which can be easily found when coming over the Nakie-Khol pass from Parsma.

Contact Anzor Kritiuli: 899700378 or 8249 2 40 22

One of these number should be correct.

Also try Vazha Karglidze

Mob:(+995) 99 77 55 43,

Tel: 8 249 24548;

Gogurlta - we stayed here in 2008

A view of Gogurlta . Lilies Homestay is at the centre of this picture.

Lily and her grandson .

Lily from Gogurlta runs a cross between a Guest House and Homestay . All the rooms are clean and newly built as are many Guesthouses. In 2008 all the meals were held with the family but this might have changed as Zocrat was building a dining room table for guests when we were there .

If you are trying to find this terrific place, Gogrulta is a small hamlet opposite Dochu off Gomertsi Alazani Gorge/valley with no direct road to, only very precarious and steep paths. You can get there from the main valley track from Omolo. Stop at Dochu and make you way down to the river valley below .The climb back up the othere side of the Gorge is very hard indeed but worth the walk . Alternatively you can take the trail from Iliurta to Khakhabo or the other way around.

We first saw Gogurlta from a distance in 2007 and wanted to make a visit in 2008 . Our host Lilly and her husband have made an excellent Homestay/Guesthouse and I think it is fair to say that Gogrulta is one of the most magical places in Tusheti and for us an excellent two day stay to just chill . A point worth making is the surrounding ancient birch woods are breathtaking as is the trail to Khakhabo . A place not to be missed and Lilly’s dairy and food are legendary.No English is spoken by Lilly or her husband Zocrat but a couple of Grandchildren are pretty good , you get the picture .I understand there are other places to stay in Gogurlta but I have no idea where or who to contact. A number of French riders arrived when we were there and they stayed in some nice looking rooms below Lillies but that is all I know.

I hope this account is useful . Of course I have my preferences but please take this as a personal opinion - this is after all a blog and not an official website . If you have any information on Guesthouses or Homestays please let me know.

Happy traveling and if you make the trip let me know how you got on.

Regards Chris Wills